Where do Bichons get skin infections?
Under the ears, in the armpits and groin, under the tail, and anywhere the coat has stayed damp or matted.
Quick answer
Where do Bichons get skin infections?
Under the ears, in the armpits and groin, under the tail, and anywhere the coat has stayed damp or matted.
The infection is almost always somewhere the coat stayed wet. Find the damp places on your dog and you have found where the problem starts.

Owners who noticed a smell before they noticed anything else, and owners who have found a hot, weeping patch under a mat and want to know how it appeared without warning.
This guide is not medical advice. If your dog shows pain, sudden behavior change, or worsening symptoms, consult a licensed veterinarian.
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Skin infection in the Bichon Frise is an overgrowth of organisms that already live on the skin, triggered when the local environment becomes warm, damp and enclosed. Because this breed has no facial folds, the relevant hotspots are moisture traps created by the coat itself: matted patches, undried undercoat, and fur kept damp by tear overflow. Most cases are preventable through drying and brushing rather than through medication.
Secondary skin infection is one of the most frequent presentations in small animal practice, and it is especially common in dense-coated breeds where moisture is retained. Given that skin allergies head the Bichon Frise's documented health list, and that allergy is the leading cause of the barrier damage infection exploits, this is a problem most owners of the breed will encounter at least once.
The coat is the central factor. A curly dense double coat with a very low shedding rate holds water, resists drying, and mats readily, and the grooming requirement for this breed is rated at the top of the scale precisely because of this. The white coat makes staining from licking and tear overflow visible, which is helpful diagnostically. The breed's documented allergic tendency provides the barrier damage that lets ordinary skin organisms become a problem in the first place.
Wet weather, swimming and frequent bathing all introduce the moisture; what determines whether it causes trouble is the drying that follows. Humid climates slow natural drying considerably. Grooming intervals stretched from five weeks to eight allow matting to establish. Bedding that stays damp, and drying a dog by letting it sit in a warm room rather than using directed airflow, both leave the undercoat wet for hours.
Book promptly for any moist, red or weeping patch, for an area that smells, for sores or crusting, or for hair loss over an area the dog has been licking. Hot spots need veterinary treatment rather than home management because the affected hair must be clipped away and the pain controlled. Seek same-day attention if your dog is systemically unwell alongside the skin problem, if the area is spreading rapidly, if there is significant swelling, or if a wound is deep or bleeding. Do not apply human antiseptics or steroid creams.
See all Bichon Frise health problems, which breeds are prone to skin infections, or the full Bichon Frise breed guide for temperament, exercise needs and ownership costs.
A localised infection typically resolves within one to three weeks of appropriate treatment. Hot spots improve rapidly once clipped and treated, often within days. Clipped areas regrow over one to three months in this coat type. Preventive routines take a fortnight to establish as habits and then run indefinitely.
A coat you can comb through to the skin anywhere on the body, no odour, no damp patches after grooming, and long stretches with no infection at all. Success in this breed is measured in the absence of surprises found under the coat.
Work through these areas with your hands, parting the coat down to the skin. Looking at the surface tells you nothing on a dog with this coat.
Owners tend to focus on what they wash with. In a heavily coated breed the more consequential step is what happens afterwards.
A curly dense double coat with very low shedding holds water like a sponge. Towelling removes surface water and leaves the undercoat wet, and a dog that feels dry to the hand can still be damp at the skin for hours. That warm, still, humid layer against the skin is close to ideal for the yeast and bacteria that normally live there in small numbers.
This is why the same dog can develop a hot spot after a rainy walk or a swim without any allergy or injury being involved. Nothing has gone wrong with the immune system; the environment on the skin simply changed.
Drying properly means using a dryer on a cool or warm setting, working section by section, lifting the coat and directing air at the skin rather than at the surface. It takes longer than towelling and it is the difference between a groom that helps and one that causes a problem three days later.
Mats make this considerably worse, because a felted patch cannot be dried at all. Water gets in and does not come out.

Alfie's owner Kirsty noticed a faint sour smell in the car and assumed something had been spilled. Two days later she found it: a warm damp patch behind his left ear, roughly the size of a coin, hidden entirely under the coat. He had been swimming at the weekend and she had towelled him and left him by the radiator. The coat had felt dry to the touch within an hour. The vet clipped the area, which turned out to be considerably larger than the coin-sized patch Kirsty had felt, and treated it. Kirsty bought a coat dryer that week and now dries him to the skin every time he gets wet. He has not had a recurrence.
Key takeaway: Dry to the hand is not dry to the skin in this coat. If you can smell something before you can find it, part the coat and check the places that stay warm and damp.
No, because they do not have facial folds. That description belongs to breeds with deep skin creases such as Bulldogs, Pugs and Shar Peis. A Bichon's facial skin problems relate to tear overflow keeping the fur damp, which is a different mechanism with a different solution.
Often you smell it before you see it. Parting the coat reveals redness, a moist or greasy surface, small pimples, crusting, or a distinct yeasty odour. Brown or rust-coloured staining of the fur in one area is a strong hint the dog has been licking there.
A rapidly developing area of moist, painful, weeping skin, usually created by the dog licking or chewing one place intensively. They can appear within hours and expand fast. In a coated breed the surrounding hair must be clipped away for treatment to reach the skin at all.
No, though they travel together constantly. Allergy damages the skin barrier and creates the itch; infection is what colonises the damaged skin afterwards. A dog with repeated infections and no obvious moisture cause is usually telling you there is an allergy underneath.
Keeping the area clean and dry and preventing further licking is reasonable while you get an appointment. Do not apply human creams, do not use antiseptics not intended for dogs, and do not leave a hot spot to resolve on its own. These need veterinary treatment, often including clipping the area.
Attack the moisture and the matting. Dry to the skin after every wetting, brush to the skin at least every other day, keep the coat length manageable, and address tear overflow. If infections still recur despite that, ask your vet about underlying allergy.
Under the ears, in the armpits and groin, under the tail, and anywhere the coat has stayed damp or matted.
Sometimes within hours. A small licked patch can become a large painful weeping area overnight.
For this breed it is close to essential. Towelling leaves the undercoat wet, which is where the problem starts.
Daily is ideal, every other day is the realistic minimum. Surface brushing misses the undercoat entirely.
Use the collar or bodysuit your vet supplies. Licking is what turns a small irritation into an open wound.
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